Visit and enjoy Cordoba’s Fusion

Ornaments at the main gate of La Mezquita

   Cordoba had been through religious and cultural fusion since early 700s. Today, we still can witness this remarkable fusion that becomes the main selling point of this historical city. My wife and I visited Cordoba (Qurthubah in Arabic) in April 2014. Here are some Tricks of Trip for you.

When we arrived (at the Train Station)

   Our visit to Cordoba was part of our Andalusia Tour. We went to Cordoba from Madrid by train. We found out from the map that the Old Town, where our hotel located, was not that far away from the train station. We walk down the Avinguda de Cervantes. It was a main road with a garden in the middle of it. Walking down the street through the garden, you can enjoy various types of trees, flowers, ponds, and historical statues. It took us around 20 minutes of walk from the train station to reach the Puerta de Almodovar, one of the entry gates to the old town. The Entry Gate and the city wall surrounded the Old Town were typical Moorish style with a replica of irrigation system right outside of the wall.

The Garden in the middle of Avinguda de Cervantes 

               The old city wall and the irrigation system replica

Must visit buildings

   The first and the main attraction for us was La Mezquita de Cordoba. This building has been through a long phase of identity changes. It started as a Roman temple long before the Visigoth era in the 600s. It became a catholic church in 600s. In early 700s, when Islam ruled Cordoba (part of Al Andalus, an Islamic state that covered Spain, Portugal, Andora and some Southern France), the Muslims and the Christians were agreed to share half of the church to be used as a mosque. Each respected other’s religious practices. In the late 700s, Abdul Ar Rahman I, a caliph who succeeded to make Cordoba as an autonomous Islamic state, asked the Christians to sell their part of the church. As a return, the Christians received sufficient funds to renovate their other churches in the city. Abdul Ar Rahman I then built a larger mosque and continued by his successors. After Muslims were defeated in the reconquista, the mosque became the Cordoba Cathedral.

   The main entrance located at the back part of the mosque; a common practice in building a mosque since the worshipers should fill the very front rows of the mosque first while praying. We place the main entrance at the back part so that the late comers would not disturb those who already in the front rows, even though there are side doors available. It is also common for a mosque to have a large back yard so that in certain events such as Idul Fithri (Eid), the mosque could accommodate more worshipers outside of the main building. The back yard is really beautiful with trees, a pond and the main tower. The irrigation system of the trees was centralized from the pond’s water flow.

The backyard

    The mosque is still stood well with its gigantic doors at the main entrance and at the colorful side walls. The mosque’s exterior was covered with beautiful Islamic ornaments such as Islamic-Arabic words and many forms of octagon (a common symbol of Islamic State in Spain). Christian symbols such as statues and crosses also presence in the exterior and the names used for the side doors.

One of the door at the side wall of La Mezquita

In front of La Mezquita at night

   Inside of the mosque, we could see the pillars, ceiling, floor, and the Mihrab (where the Imam (leader) in Islamic praying ritual stood) were definitely built in common Islamic style. Islamic-Arabic words also appear in many places. The Christian ambience appears at the chapels at the side walls and at the main altar in the center of the mosque. The fusion of the two religions was so unique that I have never seen it anywhere else. It would be amazing if the building could serve both religions again as a worship place like it used to in the early 700s.

One of the ceiling

The main hall of La Mezquita

                                                                 

The Cathedral part

The Mihrab

   The mosque was an amazing accomplishment considering the size, the small details of sculptures, and the technology used in the 8^th century. Abdul Ar Rahman I himself supervised the building process.

You can find more detail about La Mezquita here

   In front of La Mezquita, we could see Puente Romano (the Roman Bridge) cross over the Guadalquivir River. It was built by the Roman in the 1^st century. The Muslims then renovated it and added a tower at one end of the bridge in the 12^th century to protect the bridge and the city. Now the tower houses a museum. You can see a better view of La Mezquita from the bridge.

Puente Romano at night

   The next important building to visit is Alcazar de Cordoba (Al Qashr in Arabic, The Palace in English). In the early medieval time, it was a Visigoth fortress. When the Muslims ruled, it was renovated and became the palace of Abdul Ar Rahman I and his successors. It used to be a very beautiful palace with gardens, ponds and a library. During the reconquista in the 1200s, it became the command control of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella as a symbol of their aggression to take over Spain from Muslim dynasty. Now, it is a museum with a very beautiful garden. I strongly suggest you to climb up the tower and enjoy the view of La Mezquita, Puente Romano, and the Palace’s garden.

You can find more details about the Alcazar here 

In front of Alcazar

On top of the main tower of Alcazar

The garden of Alcazar

Sight Seeing

   The old town was surrounded by walls. Inside, we could see Islamic, Christian, and Jewish legacies such as baths, synagogue, statues, etc. There are also local artists that produce leather products. The old city was built with narrow streets, a common practice for Islamic States at that time. The narrow street helps to keep the temperature low during summer and to protect the citizens from possible massive attack; it would be a challenge for a large cavalry to attack a city with narrow streets. I suggest you to start exploring the old city from Puerta de Almodovar.

   A bit further you would find the new town. This was the first extension of the old town before the city of Cordoba expanded and developed to become what it is today. In the new town we could see the Roman temple ruins, beautiful Roman style churches, the old bull ring, and a lot of beautiful historical plazas. All are in walking range. I suggest you to start explore the new city from the Plaza de las tendillas. The Plaza was the separator point between old and new town.

Ruin of Roman Temple

One of the roman style church

Calleja de las flores (Street of Flowers) with La Mezquita's tower as background    

One of the narrow streets

Plaza del Potro

Gastronomy

   You could find typical Spanish foods such as Paella, Arroz Negro and many seafood products all over the place. There were also a lot of international restaurant chains around La Mezquita.

   Because of our halal food diet, we need to find a halal restaurant. Fortunately, there were also a lot of them. They were not hard to find, since they usually use Arabic names. You just need to make sure by asking to the waitress or even looking at their halal certificate.

   It would be easier if you are traveling with someone wears a Muslim identity. Since my wife wears hijab, a lot of restaurants salesman that offering brochures outside of la Mezquita mentioned that their restaurants serve halal food, some of them also offer a place to pray in their restaurants. We decided to eat in an Arabic Restaurant called El Sultan. It was located nearby La Mezquita in Martinez Rucker Street. The restaurant serves seafood, meats, vegetarian Arabian menu, and range of coffees and other Arabian and common beverages. The interior was also really interesting completed with Arabian music.

   The fusion of Islam and Christian historical sites seems to be the main offering of Cordoba tourism. I would suggest you to at least spend 2 days in Cordoba. Use the first morning to visit La Mezquita, and the rest of the 1^st day to explore the old town. Then use the 2^nd morning to visit Alcazar and the rest of the 2^nd day to explore the New Town.

Last suggestions and notes:

1.     You can visit La Mezquita and Alcazar FOR FREE. You only need to show up at 8.30 am in the morning, except Sundays and holidays for La Mezquita and except Mondays, Sundays, and holidays for Alcazar. If you visit both attractions after 9.30 am, you would need to pay €8 for La Mezquita and €4.5 for Alcazar. You’re welcome…

2.   Choose a hotel that located in the old town so that you do not have to buy daily transportation tickets. For Muslim travelers, a hotel located to main attractions would help a lot when you need to take a time out for your prayers. There are a lot of hotels in the old Town, range from modest hostels up to 5 stars hotels. Google it.

3.    If you’re afraid to get lost there’s a free walking tour everyday (except Tuesday) started at 10.30 am at Plaza de las tendillas. The tour covers the old town and the new town. You can find more detail about Free Tour Cordoba here .

4.    La Mezquita, Alcazar, and Puente Romano were not only amazing during daylight but also at night. Even better to take pictures at night with less tourists around and amazing lighting system of the attractions.

For more pictures of our visit to Cordoba, please check my Facebook album here